DAVID MOORE - WINE BEHIND THE LABEL 11TH EDITION
David Moore author of Wine Behind the Label reviews UMAMU and gives us a Rosette in his 11th edition. '
❁ Umamu (Margaret River) www.umamuestate.com
This excellent small Margaret River property produces a range of first class reds and whites. One of the more interesting aspects of the estate is that a number of the wines are released with significant bottle age. The fruit is all sourced from the East-West facing estate vineyard which was first planted in 1978. 10 km to the south east of the Margaret River it provides grapes of increasing old vine complexity. Everything is done as naturally as possible to achieve the best results in the wines. Sauvignon Semillon is richly textured with a honeyed waxy character emerging with age, nicely balancing the citrus fruit. The varieties are vinified separately and a portion is barrel fermented. Sauvignon Blanc is fresh and zesty with expressive complex citrus rather than raw green fruits and has an edgy minerality. Chardonnay comes from close to 20 year old vineyards and has a restrained Burgundy quality with barrel fermentation in new and used oak. Sparkling Chardonnay is in a real Blanc de Blancs style with a rich citrus and bready quality from four and a half years on lees. The range of whites is completed by a cane cut Sauvignon Blanc. This is rich, sweet and honeyed but with a zesty fresh balance it weighs in at just around 10 % alcohol. Cabernet Merlot also has a little Cabernet Franc included and is supple and rounded with a fine balance of black fruits, plum and creamy oak. It gets 10 months in wood. Shiraz also impresses, with black fruits, spices, a hint of pepper and well judged oak in which the fermentation is completed. The Cabernet Franc is a really stylish example, one of the very finest. Supple, structured with 10 months in wood which you barely consider. A mix of red and black berry and cherry fruits are apparent with great length and intensity. Cabernet Sauvignon is among the leading examples from the region. There is an elegant and restrained cedar quality that many of Umamu’s near neighbours fail to achieve. It comes from vines planted in 1978 & 1982 and is aged for 18 months in 50% new French oak which is seamlessly handled. (DM)
Recommended Reds:
Cabernet Sauvignon ★★★★✩ £F
Cabernet Franc ★★★★ £E
Shiraz ★★★✩ £D
Cabernet Merlot ★★★✩ £E
Recommended Whites:
Sparkling Chardonnay ★★★★ £F
Chardonnay ★★★★ £E
Sauvignon Blanc ★★★★ £D
Sauvignon Blanc Semillon ★★★ £C
Sauvignon Blanc Cane Cut ★★★✩ £D
