Vintage 2026 notes
This year started with picking the Chardonnay on the 24th of February.
We are grateful for the warm settled weather conditions which allowed the fruit to ripen evenly. Margaret River is typically blessed with weather that allows for long ripening periods - our vines are in the middle of the 110km North South length of the region, and ever so slightly cooler than the northern region. I am always relieved to see Marri tree blossoms - the silvereye are happy and not looking at the grapes for a food source. Though we still net for parrots and crows, and late seaso silvereye pressure and kangaroo access to the vines. I had some overseas UMAMU supporters visit, took them round the vineyard - always a treat to get to taste the fruit from the different blocks.
I always learn so much walking the vines with Vineyard Guru Colin. We start in the 26-year-old Chardonnay block. Colin notes,
“A bit of solarisation here. It’s not always about flavour, but you can see how that fruit is slightly more advanced, while behind it the hue is still greener.”
We manage the canopy to create a dappled light effect on the fruit. Leaves act as a natural sunscreen, allowing enough light for ripening without sunburn.
A key observation this season was the difference between the front and back of the bunch, and how that influences ripening and picking decisions.
The side of the bunch exposed to the sun ripens faster than the shaded side. The difference is noticeable and adds another layer of complexity. We are seeing around a five to six day variation in expression. The sun side tends toward lower acid and riper fruit characters, while the shaded side retains a small amount of malic freshness. That variability is positive and contributes to wine complexity.
(Row orientation adds another layer. With north–south rows, one side receives morning sun and the other afternoon sun, further building variation across the fruit.)
Colin explains,
“In Chardonnay, that variability is what we want. We like the raciness, the fruit, and that natural complexity.
In Cabernet, it’s the opposite. Variability can show up as green, unripe characters, which become very obvious in the wine.”
I ask why it stands out more in reds.
Colin explains,
“In Cabernet particularly, you’re dealing with compounds called methoxypyrazines. These are responsible for those green, herbaceous characters. Even at very low concentrations, they show up clearly through the wine.”
This is why Cabernet is often left to hang longer. Even once sugars and acids are in range, there is usually an additional period before picking.
“If you crush 20 bunches, analytically everything might look right. But you still have variability in flavour. That extra hang time is about bringing the slower, shaded fruit into line and removing those green edges.
In Chardonnay, if the numbers are right, we pick. We want that natural tension and variation.
In reds, even a small percentage of unripe fruit can dominate the wine. You might have 90% in the perfect range, but the remaining 10% can show through and detract from quality.
That’s really what ‘hang time’ means. It’s an insurance policy, allowing the last part of the fruit to catch up and ensuring consistency across the block.”
Even within a single row, variability can be significant. A small section of greener fruit, often in heavier or cooler soil, can impact the overall quality if picked too early.
Colin shares vineyard cues he watches for before harvest - the cooler weather, the yellowing leaves, softer fruit, riper tannins that signal a block is nearly ready.
I love these insights, they really make me appreciate how much timing, observation, and instinct shape the final wine.
Vintage is a wrap with Cabernet Sauvignon on 13th April.
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Cheers Charmaine